Philadelphia has given the world many renowned designers who significantly influenced the fashion world and introduced new trends. One such luminary is Tina Leser, who launched her fashion business in Hawaii before making her mark in New York after 1941. Discover more about her journey on philadelphianka.
This Philadelphia-born designer is celebrated for her innovative approaches to sportswear and loungewear. Throughout her life, she traveled extensively, finding inspiration in diverse countries, blending fabrics, prints, and designs to forge her own unique style. Read on to learn more about the life and creative legacy of this talented woman.
Early Life
Tina was born Christine Buffington in Philadelphia on December 12, 1910. Her parents were Charles Buffington and artist Mary Edith Cox. Later, Christine was adopted by her mother’s cousin, Georgina. At the time, her aunt married Charles Shillard-Smith, who eventually agreed to raise the child and gave her his surname.
The young girl often traveled with her parents from an early age. They visited many countries in Europe, Asia, and Africa, and lived in India for quite some time. Christine pursued her higher education in both the U.S. and Europe, studying at:
- The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts.
- The Philadelphia School of Industrial Art.
- The Sorbonne in Paris.
Her design debut took place in 1929 in Philadelphia. Two years later, she married and moved to Hawaii with her husband. It was there, using his surname and the pseudonym Tina, that she launched her own business.
Tina Leser – The Designer
Tina Leser opened her first shop, “Tina Leser Gowns,” in Honolulu in 1935. It was located near the Royal Hawaiian Hotel and operated successfully until 1942. Tina created and sold resort wear, sportswear, jumpsuits, and wraps made from local fabrics. A French seamstress worked alongside the designer. During this time, Joan Crawford and “The Dolly Sisters” became her clients, and her goods were sold at department stores like “Bonwit Teller” and “Saks Fifth Avenue.” However, after the attack on Pearl Harbor, Tina closed her business and moved to New York.
She had previously managed to arrange sales of her products there. What’s more, in New York, Tina Leser had her own company operating from 1941 to 1943. Her 1941 collection featured many pieces made from Hawaiian fabrics, hand-painted designs, and menswear. So, she wasn’t returning to nothing, but she still decided to suspend her own business.
After relocating to New York, she was invited to collaborate with the sportswear company “Edwin H. Foreman.” Leser designed for them until 1952. During this period, she created her signature harem pants and capri pants, which became popular loungewear among American women. Tina also designed activewear and swimsuits. Her inspiration came from Mexico, Guatemala, and India.
In 1953, Tina Leser founded her own company, which she led until 1964. Its headquarters were located in Manhattan. At this stage of her career, the designer once again returned to using Hawaiian prints, creating hand-painted fabrics, and designing cashmere dresses.
Her clientele included many famous personalities, such as Joan Crawford, Joan Fontaine, Audrey Hepburn, Paulette Goddard, and Kim Novak. Notably, the designer collaborated with the film and theater industries. For example, she designed costumes for the movie “Born to Be Bad” and for the Broadway musical “Park Avenue.” Her work earned her prestigious awards.
In 1964, Tina announced the closure of her business and her retirement, but two years later, she returned. The fabrics for her new collection were made on traditional Indian looms, and the designs were inspired by her travels to Asian countries.
Personal Life
Tina first married Curtis Leser in 1931. He was a biologist who worked at the Academy of Sciences. Together, they moved to Hawaii, where she started her design business. She also developed a passion for painting, spearfishing, and diving. After five years, the couple divorced, but Tina kept her husband’s surname.
Her second husband was James J. Hawley, whom she married in 1948. After their wedding, the newlyweds embarked on a round-the-world trip, which had a significant influence on the designer’s subsequent work. They raised a daughter and lived on Long Island. In 1982, their home was robbed, with silver and art objects valued at two million dollars stolen. Fortunately, the thieves were apprehended.
Regarding her public life, Tina organized a prize for Japanese designers, which she ran from 1949 to 1953. Additionally, from 1952 to 1954, she headed the Gulf Coast Art Center, which her mother had founded.
Tina Leser passed away on January 23, 1986. Her works are featured in the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Phoenix Art Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and the Kent State University Museum. The designs created by this talented woman continue to influence women’s fashion today.