For a long time in America, including Philadelphia, the barbering profession was associated with servitude. This historical perception stemmed from the era of slavery, when enslaved people were often trained to care for their masters’ hair and grooming. After emancipation, many formerly enslaved men opened barbershops to earn a living. These were primarily businesses run by men for men, as women largely cared for their hair at home until the 20th century. This article explores the development of barbering in Philadelphia. Read on at philadelphianka.
Barbering in Philadelphia: The Early Days
The history of barbering in Philadelphia mirrors the broader national trends. Before the 18th century, people mostly cared for their hair at home, and elaborate grooming wasn’t a major concern. The first barbershops started appearing around this time. They were intended for men, but male customers were rare, as the wealthy elite continued to rely on their enslaved barbers.
Interestingly, this was also when barbers began making and selling wigs, following European trends. Powdered wigs were popular among upper-class men and women, and the business flourished. Philadelphia barbers often served traveling elites who visited the city without their enslaved staff. Occasionally, they would be hired by wealthy women to create intricate hairstyles.
The vast majority of early barbers in Philadelphia were African American. Many had been freed from slavery after 1780, having learned the trade while caring for their masters’ hair. To earn a living, they began opening their own barbershops.
These Black-owned shops primarily catered to wealthy white men. They were accustomed to regular hair and beard care but could no longer rely on enslaved labor in the 19th century. The barbershops were luxurious and sometimes served as elite social clubs. One of the most famous was Joshua Eddy’s shop on Chestnut Street. Eddy became the wealthiest barber in the city, thanks to his shop’s unique atmosphere and high-quality service.
However, not all African American barbers catered to the elite; some actively fought against racism. Joseph Cassey, for instance, was involved with the abolitionist newspaper “The Liberator.”
The Shift: White vs. Black Barbers
The demographics of Philadelphia’s barbers began to change in the mid-19th century with a surge in European immigration, particularly from Germany. Many of these immigrants were skilled barbers with long-standing traditions. Unlike in the U.S., the trade in Europe was not associated with slavery, so there was no cultural stigma attached to it.
At the same time, the number of African American barbers began to decline. Younger generations were less interested in the profession, and many older barbers went out of business due to competition from the new immigrants.
The decline of Black barbershops was also fueled by the popularity of the fictional character Sweeney Todd:
- The “demon barber” was the subject of an anonymous novel, “The String of Pearls,” published in the mid-19th century.
- In the decades that followed, newspapers sensationalized stories of real-life murderous barbers, creating widespread fear.
- While this negatively impacted all barbers, white clients were often more inclined to fear African American barbers.
As a result, the number of Black barbers steadily decreased. In 1880, African Americans made up a fifth of Philadelphia’s barbers; by the early 20th century, that number had dropped to a tenth. Black-owned shops also moved from Market Street to South Street and other predominantly African American neighborhoods. These new shops became popular community hubs, serving as social clubs for local residents.
Meanwhile, white barbers formed their own professional organizations, like the Journeymen Barbers’ International Union and the Master Barbers’ Association of America. These groups actively pushed African Americans out of the trade and opposed interracial cooperation until the mid-20th century. During this period, Italian immigrants began to dominate the barbering industry.
Barbering in the 20th and 21st Centuries
Toward the end of the 20th century, African Americans once again began to emerge as leading barbers in Philadelphia. Many white residents had moved to the suburbs, and the popularity of the profession among them declined.
Barbershops during this era were less luxurious, but barbers remained active community leaders and mentors for young people. They often organized public events and helped foster community development.
The barbering trade faced new challenges in the 1960s and 1970s due to the rise of long hair and beards. According to the “Hair International” organization, almost 20,000 barbers lost their jobs nationwide during that time. Furthermore, barbers who worked late hours and handled large amounts of cash were often targeted by robbers, leading to a rise in violence. In the early 21st century, the emergence of salons presented a new source of competition for traditional barbershops.
Despite these challenges, the barbering profession has survived and even experienced a renaissance. Today, barbering is open to both men and women, and Philadelphians happily visit these modern establishments for their hair care needs.