An American fashion designer from Philadelphia, Willi Smith, established one of the most successful brands in the fashion industry. In 1976, he launched his own company, WilliWear Limited. Over the next ten years, he made more than $25 million from sales. His clothes were affordable and incredibly popular. Unfortunately, Smith’s sudden death caused a business decline, resulting in the company’s closure in 1990. Find out more at philadelphianka.
Childhood and education
Willi Smith was born on February 29, 1948, in Philadelphia. His father was a metalworker, while his mother was a housewife. Since childhood, the boy enjoyed painting and designing styles. His parents noticed this, and his mother predicted that he would eventually become a designer or artist.
When the parents divorced, the grandmother took over the care of her grandson. She was friends with designer Arnold Skaasi, so she arranged for Willi to do an internship with him. So began his first work in the field of clothing design, in particular, he created designs for Elizabeth Taylor.
The young man attended Mastbaum Technical High School, as well as studied fashion illustration at a local art college. After coming to New York, he enrolled at Parsons School of Design, where he was awarded a scholarship to study. Willi also took liberal arts classes at New York University.
Career as a designer
Willi Smith started his career as a designer in 1967. He found inspiration in the ordinary people he observed on New York’s streets every day. During this time, he met model Bethann Hardison, with whom he later frequently collaborated.
After that, Smith’s career progressed as follows:
- in 1969, he was appointed as the lead designer of the children’s sportswear brand Digits
- in 1970, he met Laurie Mallet, who became his design assistant the following year
- in 1972, he was nominated for the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for his work at Digits. However, the designer left the company the next year, and the company went bankrupt.
In 1974, Willi, his sister Toukie Smith and his friend Harrison Rivera-Terreaux founded the label Willi Smith Designs, Inc. They had no previous business experience and were quickly forced to close the new company. Willi, on the other hand, kept believing in this idea.
Continuing his design quest, he traveled to India with Mallet in 1976, where he created a collection of women’s apparel fashioned from natural fabrics. The line was so successful that WilliWear Ltd. was established shortly after. Mallett took over as president, while Willi Smith served as vice president and head designer.
The new brand’s first fashion show took place in the spring of 1978, and this time the launch was successful. Stylish and elegant apparel quickly gained popularity among women. It was admired for its natural materials and affordable pricing. The brand released its first men’s line in 1982, and the following year Willi Smith was awarded the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award.
During its first ten years in the fashion industry, the company generated $25 million in sales. The brand’s reputation grew and strengthened as a result of successful collaborations with artists and creators.
Smith designed costumes for choreographer Dianne McIntyre and other local theaters. Together with director Les Levine, he directed the short film “Made in New York” to present the brand’s clothing on the city’s streets and combine the worlds of cinema and fashion. In 1985, the short film “Expedition” was shot in Senegal, featuring designs inspired by the country’s street fashion.
Personal life and death
Willi Smith was openly gay and had HIV, although he was unaware of it. In February 1987, he traveled to India where he contracted shigellosis. Upon his return to the United States, he quickly became unwell and fell ill with pneumonia. The combination of all these diseases was fatal for the designer.
In April of the same year, Willi was admitted to the hospital with acute pneumonia, however, his life could not be saved. Tests revealed that he was HIV-positive, resulting in a severe course of the disease. The outstanding designer died on April 17, 1987, and his funeral took place on April 20. He was only 39 years old.
After his death, Mallet continued to manage the clothing brand. In 1989, she began collaborating with designer Andre Wolker to revive the company. They collaborated on a new collection in 1990, but it was poorly received and hardly sold. The company declared bankruptcy and ceased operations within the same year.
Unfortunately, without its creator and head designer, Willi Smith, it lost its uniqueness and competitiveness. If he hadn’t died so young, the company’s fate would likely have been different. Nonetheless, Willi Smith was able to make a significant contribution to the development of the fashion industry. He was the first to design affordable streetwear and provide people with something they could wear every day.
In 1988, Mayor David Dinkins of New York City proclaimed February 23 “Willi Smith Day,” and a bronze memorial plaque honoring the designer was put on the Fashion Walk of Fame on Seventh Avenue in 2002.